When strumming the belt, make sure to avoid hitting both sections of the belt. Alcohol won’t get rid of the oil, only warm soapy water will. I did the belt-test (which I saw referenced in some posts about ghost Y-axis crashes), and got 238 X and 249 Y. 9. Upon further inspection I noticed that the bottom rod sticks out a little more than the other rod and it's been scraping the z axis metal side. Step 4 Installing the filament sensor. 9 mm. I've rebuilt my X Oh man, a colleague has the exact same problem. The whole tower was one print and the floor and fence was the second print. Had the same issue. Check all of the extrusions for any loose filament, or failed print parts on them. What I did was calibrate using the audible tool then improved it even move by turning the belt in 1/4 turn increments followed by 1/8 turn increments. Tighten your belt until plucking it gives a low bass note - that is tight enough. A temp tower could also help here as well and seems like you already know to dry the filament. Uneven belt tension is one cause of this. 5mm Allen key, tighten the M3x22 screw. Always make sure that the parts of the printer are clean. You can read more about it here on Prusa's forum . 43 total, $19. Messing with the belt itself it is notably looser than before but the x r/prusa3d • We have just released PrusaSlicer 2. Different nozzle types. There is a belt tension adjustment screw under the bed for -Y-, and an adjustment screw for the -X- axis near the -X- axis stepper motor. At $25/1kg, $30. The reviewer spent an additional $151 on new nozzles, pushing the total cost over $8,000 AUD ($5,200 USD). Use the built in Prusa tension test and their recommended numbers. com/article/adjusting-belt-tension-xl_401793Steps I took to get a perfect tension: 1. My MK3S requires this to be set to "legacy Marlin". Design a couple of spacers that you can put at each end of the x axis and you can adjust accordingly. 2 lb recommendation comes from a print quality test someone uploaded to Prorifi and I haven't found any advantage in going higher. 4 Prusa machines later, I am done. sorry for the delay others have mentioned what they are and you got good info( motors x/y/extruder have a gear attached via a grub/set screw ). All things related to Prusa 3D printers. So I guessed the belt obviously is too loose, even though it should be ideal (and by then belt tension noise comparing to my previous mk3 with no issues, it sounded perfect). Values changed from x:270/y:293 to x:245/y:292 (right before and right after the fw update) without changing the tension. Some XLs seem to come with (slightly) overtightened Belts from the factory. its just in my experience i get layer shifting. stacker55. Make sure that the indicator is in between the Min and the Max, right in the middle of it. Check your belt tension, then run the PLA homing tower Gcode. I think that prusa will try to incorporate a enclosure such as the boron printer. The picture shows a print done with mk3 and a layer height of 0. Only the X-axis sides have the issue. With the motor as far toward the carriage as possible, the tension on the belt is likely to be less than optimum. Don't put any on the Z screw it got a washer that's made of self-lubricating plastic that could degrade if you lubricate it. These waves only appear in y direction. Follow the instructions in the video below to adjust the belt. Ender is a loud fan noise, Prusa is more like mechanical noise. You should ask on the prusa sub. Ignore the numbers. This should be pretty easy to figure out. Check your belt-tension. Nothing helped so far and we are a bit clueless at the moment. Remove the belt from y-belt holder, insert or remove belt so that the desired number of notches are inserted into the belt holder (1 notch will yield about 25 points of tension). For the Y axis, try to clean the rods, then relubricate them, and see if there are lose screws. Put the Y-axis belt idler back on. Hello, I was looking at the Prusa XL toolchanging mechanism and had a few questions about how it worked Sep 12, 2021 · The total counter increases by 1 when multiple y-axis crashes happen per print. It seems crazy to me how everyone is excited about Chinese manufacturers going the Klipper way. You could get less if you got a right angle power plug. Operating width: ~40inches, more if you want to use large spools and extend the spool holders. So far I have run the XYZ calibration and 1st Tune your printer. The X-axis again failed. •. ----. IS alpha5 is active but I also get them with 4. I find the y-axis slightly more tedious to adjust, since the screw is under the print bed. The wood place where it sits I agree it is not the best place either making the noises louder. Check where the belt meets that orange plastic on the left hand side of the z axis just before it goes around the motor. com Still waiting on my XL, but I do own a couple DIY core-XY printers and this is a common issue with this type of motion system. On the Original Prusa XL, adjusting the belt to the optimal tension is crucial to achieving good quality on the prints. 48mm with an 0. 1, and just now on the new 3. The screws holding the plastic parts on the metal ones tend to get a bit lose. nismoskys. That's it for the y-axis! I bought an assembled MK3S+ that arrived yesterday. Should be rigid. I can see that the XL manual has been updated to use a PET gauge. A subreddit for practical questions about component-level electronic circuits: design, repair, component buying, test gear and tools. w0lfwood. I've purchased 4 Prusa machines and so far 3 out of 4 have required substantial troubleshooting. 9. you test with the screws loose initially, then again after tightening. Turn the printer back right side up and fine adjust the belt The wasted money would be the same ratio if you take spools for $10/kg comparing on both systems. And the last print y-axis crashes counter changes only, when crashes happen. however I am a bit confused with what they mean with "tool changing" because prusa in the past has used the term to describe color changes in their MMU, whereas E3D use it to describe their real tool changing. See full list on help. Prusa released updates for the XL's firmware and slicer, improving multi-color print logic and adding missing documentation. The correct range of tension is actually fairly small, and there is an objective way to adjust it, rather than "that sounds about right". For me, the belt tensioner printed in Overture PTEG accurately reflects the tension that the app reports. Check this Prusa KB article. 0 lb gives 77 and 95 Hz. The actual force holding the toolhead to the tool-changer comes from an interference fit (probably in the 0. Apart from that, if you are used to the xc1, switching to a prusa is going to be 'cumbersome' to say the least, you are actually downgrading your setup, with the only benefit of a larger volume in the case of a prusa XL. better to check and verify its simply belts and not a shifted gear bc a loose Looks like a belt tension issue. Then loosen the screws on the Y rod holders. Check them and if it seems prudent, loosen them up with the Belt tuner app, and you should see those disappear. However, if the nozzle is damaged or there are impurities in the filament it might get stuck in the hotend, clogging the printer. Let me know if this isnt clear and i try to explain it another way! Edit: Also the self test should let you know if it is Apr 30, 2023 · Correct Belt Tension, resonances, and input shaping. Once you have a smooth print for 10 or so layers, check front alignment per the article. But the total counter allows me to see if crashes happened. On dual-head and five-head XL, with the tool in the parked position, loosen the M3x12 bolt to remove the dwarf-cover-door. Infill patterns. Slide one end of the belt out from the belt holder (right picture), move the belt in 2-3 'teeth' ( blue arrow ), and push it back into the slot using the 1. This leads to the nozzle picking up debris/PETG, which creates blobs and, ultimately, print failure. Get it as close as possible to the middle and run a real belt test if possible. You cold try to finely file the hole for the screw /nut to a slothole and correct the alignment that way. so go dead center or only a tad above, and when you tighten you'll still be within the target range after tightening, and as you print the belt will slacken a bit Dislikes (these require explanation): The XL has to heat soak the bed for for every print. Award. You can very quickly dial into the perfect belt tension. Check the tension of your belts. I recalibrated xyz, lubricated all rails, put a fan Prusa XL is incredible! Print showcase. 95 wasted and $10. The gauge should be 3D printed, and shows the belt tension. ⬢ Using the 2. Your 4mm gap at the front is usually a sign the gantry is racked, meaning the X axis isn't perfectly perpendicular to the Y. You adjust the tension screws on the x axis to correct this problem. An over-tightened belt can cause an irregular movement in the X and Y axes. Check that the belt is centered and straight in the “clamps” that hold it to the print head. :) 1. 8. 5 looks fantastic to me. Of course this method will get you to the lower limit of optimal belt tension, so maybe a little bit more tension won't hurt, but at least it provides a Tighten your belts, tighten the screws on your tool head, and if that fails, slow down your print speeds. I have a theory it may be a bug with prusalink as the print I had the layer shift on was the only print I sent and monitored via prusalink and I noticed when I tried connecting to the printer to check the status, and the prusalink software froze so I physically checked the print (about 10 mins later) and saw the layer shift had just happened. Prusa Connect and PrusaLink explained. Tighten your belt. Manually adjust the X and Y axis when the printer isn't running to see if you can isolate the noise to any particular one. Any more and you will cause damage and / or premature wear on bearings etc. Get your grub screws properly tight. 3. I slightly fastened the belt while moving the y-axis until the sound was almost gone. otherwise, if the screws wont let you tighten it enough, then you need to shorten your belt. Out of the box it's printing terribly. 5. I'm not really sure where to go from here. Printables Prusa XL Homing Tower. This is super easy to do, btw. Alcohol is necessary between prints, but only need to wash when you notice oily film or have adhesion problems. i'd just print a new set of x axis mounts that have a tensioner built in. Ignore the number. I tightened the Y really but really struggled with the X. With firmware 3. The belts feel and sound like they are properly tensioned, and when I tried to get the y value Got it assembled and noticed that the z axis kept failing. 7. Loosen the 9 screws holding the heatbed to the Y carriage. There is a protrusion on the part. Check the tension on your belts. The lower the number, the more tight the belt is. You can request a time estimate after the initial evaluation. I've seen 80-100mm/s be a common starting point for There were other factors that I felt that gave Prusa an advantage but support was a major one. Not too tight, just enough to make the sound go away. And so little waste too, most of that tower is hollow. If your value is under (or close to) 240, you need to loosen the belt. There should be a check for the belt tension in the menus somewhere, I don't remember exactly where, but you can look it up in the online knowledgebase. However, this is only the worst-case scenario and we're usually able to process the standard repair requests in a shorter time. You might want to try taking off the y motor and see if it still rattles. It starts at about 5mm up on the z axis and shifts backwards about 10mm. 6 nozzles. May 4, 2023 · I ordered replacement parts from Prusa (pulley, belt, additional LM8UU bearings just in case, and an X-axis stepper motor. Re-tighten the pulley holders (They can be released slightly later if tension is too high). 6mm to 0. And redo the Y-axis assembly Step 27. I'm experiencing issues with stringing while using the Multi-Toolhead Prusa XL (2TL) with stock . Had similar issues until i noticed the heater block was loose and had to screw the heat break further down into it. 05 - 0. The 4. You could have gotten a clog that was able to work free and then the extruder recovered or it could be a freak corruption of the file. The lengths in this article are for an Ender 3, so you'd need to measure your belt length and do the math to get the correct frequency you want. Lines like those make me think of the same cracking/line issues I have with the Prusament that came with my MK3S using the stock settings. The application determines the belt tension by measuring the frequency of the vibration generated by strumming it. Any idea how to move the rod? Figured if I pull it out a little bit so it's not scraping the side it would release the tension on the z-axis. Here, enthusiasts, hobbyists, and professionals gather to discuss, troubleshoot, and explore everything related to 3D printing with the Ender 3. Move the X/Y access around by hand and feel for any rough spots, or resistance, or anything that feel like it is stopping it from moving properly, specifically on the far corners. 61K subscribers in the prusa3d community. You can also check belt tension in the menu with the belt test. You want to strum down on the top portion missing the bottom portion of the belt entirely. 48 changes for an example is pretty low and it get's even worse beyond that: That's stuff people print and it's your so called "real world example". Tested with way too loose and way too tight belt tension - NO difference I was out of ideas, so I contacted support. Clogged hotend (XL) A clogged nozzle or hotend is a common issue for FFF/FDM printers. I know this might not be too terribly helpful but unfortunately belts are a bitch for people new to 3D printing. I have an older MK3S as well, which prints great. If you can make the belt twang you are good. The parts were delivered promptly. ⬢ Insert the Prusa ball holder assembly into the heatsink. I don't know the numbers off the top of my head but there are specific values it should fall between. Retighten heatbed screws in the order described in the Heatbed and PSU assembly Step 17. I've tried tensioning the belts using the value from the self-test on my mk3s at firmware v. i go straight to belts and forget about grub screws and then find one popped out somewhere and i need to find out where. E-Steps and Extrusion Multiplier and belt tension, the picture looks like everything is out of calibration. That is not a problem tho, It is still more silence than the bloody loud fan noise. If it does, repeat until it doesn't. The filament sensors are at the extruder and at the beginning of the Bowden tube. I haven't seen the review yet, but I will comment on the Klipper point I've seen in the comments. The protrusion must be facing down. I have attempted to tension the y belt, realign the bearings, lubricate, update and factory resetting the device entirely with the latest firmware from the website and even attempting to block the over extending y rods with putty and zipties. After the belt is secured, the motor is rotated away from the carriage to provide additional tension. Below is a picture example of my issue that was resolved by the fine tuning of the belt. After the repair, the payment is made. I’d bet it’s loose and skipping therefore the printer can’t “find” the end of that axis. I've been printing decently (as far as I can figure) but wanted to check the belt tension numbers again. To fix it you need to loosen the Allen screws on the stepper motor and adjust the cog that the belt sits on. I suspect your X belt may be improperly tensioned since the effect goes away after the height that the model stops having sharp directional changes in the X axis. Okay so this is going to be a mess but I’ve had this same problem for a while but I finally fixed it, what you have to do is take apart the coupler for the ptfe tube into the extruder and heat the hotend up. I can't pull any tighter on the X. An over-tightened belt can result in layer shifting. This can happen if you have the wrong g-code flavor setting in PrusaSlicer. PETG. I tightened the tensioners on the front, but that wasn't enough obviously. In case you can’t find the answer to your question on our websites, we are providing full 24/7 customer support via live chat and e-mail in several languages. 1. Look down the x-axis to make sure it’s aligned. 2. May 21, 2018 · I had a lot of trouble with Y, since the belt holder just wouldn't grip the teeth without slipping at anything close to proper tension. If there are no issues, the filament is pushed in the hotend, melted, and then extruded through the nozzle. Thing that fixed that is lowering print fan and speeds and raising temp to 220 as the PrusaSlic3r profiles have wayyy too The belt is secured on the carriage for the extruder but the x-axis motor has rotation capability. Below is my latest email to Prusa in a 20-email long thread. After doing a test print again, the noise was completely gone on slow movements. It’s very easy. Then the way to get it tight is to have the motor rotated towards the frame when you first tension the belt. Some are due to dual extruder gears, others due to sinusoidal wave forms in the stepper drivers overlapping, incorrect belt tension, toothed belt idlers etc. The 1st one performed wonderfully so I was lured into purchasing more machines (total 2 MK3S+ and 2 I had a similar issue and Prusa support sent me a new y axis motor. 20 hours in support chat over 3 days (5 days at the time of writing) We repeated all the steps, I did somewhat 100s of tests, recorded 20-30 videos and made 100s of photos for support to investigate. Usually this happens because the natural give in the motion system or on the tool head is being pushed to extremes relative to the speed you’re moving the tool. Grease the bearings and move back and forward or side to side. And the last thing, you can print TPU and other materials at the same time in the xc1. On the Original Prusa XL, the dwarf-cover-door prevents access to adjusting the idler tension screws. I've attempted to use Jessie PLA with Jessie PETG as the support interface, but I am encountering excessive stringing. Welcome to the Ender 3 community, a specialized subreddit for all users of the Ender 3 3D printer. Belts tend to climb towards the high end, thats why most belt-pulleys are crowned. The belt may be rubbing on the plastic. Please select the printer type. Compare the manual torque needed to rotate the y axis stepper drive vs, say, x axis. After each layer, it will home the XY carriage and you can check for skipped steps, belts too loose or tight. In the grooves, and in the top grooves. Butthurt_Beluga. . Tighten the 2 hex screws that tension the Y belt in the front of the printer bed. Original Prusa MK4 Original Prusa XL Original Prusa MK3/S/+ Original Prusa MINI If you have an MK3 or MK3S you can go to the LCD menu -> Support -> Belt Status. Just to be totally sure I followed Prusa's instructions for relubricating X and Y (using 99% IPA and the lubricant which came with the printer) and get 238-240 X and 249-253 Y when I run it multiple times. 5 nozzle default pla profiles. After the printer is received, the repair can take up to 30 days (according to EU law). Show off your prints, or ask a question. We tried recalibrating in all directions, reseating the pinda and playing around with belt tension. My printer came with a tube of lubricant. It will put down a base, then home the tool head between each layer. If the printer is off you should not feel much resistance when turning the motor manual. Initially, I replaced the belt pulley and belt and re-tested the printer. Once you tighten the belt on both sides, ensure that the two sides are perfectly aligned. Adjusting the belt tension as before did not resolve the problem. Managed a one-toolhead print of the Batman thing from the sd card. I started with loosening the top screw and have since progressed to taking out the belt and putting it in looser, adjusting the x axis motor position a bit, and taking out the top screw completely. • 9 mo. Turn the whole printer over to its side to access the bottom of the printer (left picture). I find if there is a lot of resistance trying to pinch the belt to itself it is good. Step 7 Assembling the front corner. -0. Tighten screws, tension belts, lower print speed, lower print fan, check for wet filament. Prusa officially changed the XL's default nozzle from 0. That top part of the belt is twisting or being forced sideways by something. Apr 9, 2023 · Then after that, I thought that would fix it, but now I started getting random belt tension issues more often as well as still getting tool crashing. The only thing I have done recently was adjust belt tension as I was trying to fix the occasional layer shift issue - I May 3, 2021 · How to tighten the Y-Axis belt on the Prusa MK3 3d printer. Then get your belts dialed in. 1. The idea is that the belt should be tight enough so the axis doesn’t move if the motor is stationairy, dont overtighten it though. Belt tension is very forgiving so you have room to play with both the top and bottom screws. My Prusa I3 has started layer shifting dramatically across the X axis. A loose belt can cause Layer shifting, Ghosting, or other print abnormalities, like getting an irregular shape instead of a perfect circle. The Y-axis sides of the cube are perfect. If yours didn't, search for "maintenance" in the knowledgebase and it tells you what it OK to use. 0. Share. It looked good, but the toolhead calibration kept crashing https://help. If your value over (or close to) 300, you need to tighten For coreXY, you need a really rigid and square frame, as well as proper belt tension. • 7 yr. If belt tension is not equal in the two belts, then your axes will be skewed (in some cases, it can appear that the X axis is at an angle and not perfectly straight). its probably your cable ties behind the extruder, its hitting them and thinking its home and so mesuring the length as too short, make sure the x axis is homing square against the frame. After several hours of printing, various kinds of debris may start to accumulate around the printer parts or under the heatbed - pieces of filament, dust, scraps, broken supports, etc. You can see one of the screws in the bottom center of the OP's video. I used the Belt tuner app to get the same freque Sudden bed adhesion issues (Prusa XL2) I'm suddenly having a lot of bed adhesion issues - just using smooth sheet, . The values should not be under 240 and above 300, but there is no unique ideal value. I figured those were too loose. 6mm nozzle and a layer width of 0. Just clean and apply the lube that came with the machine on the smooth rods. Feb 19, 2019 · 4. Note the correct orientation of the Prusa ball holder assembly. Going back to the A1, I really think Bambu rushed that out the door without proper vetting of the design. Think like a dry windshield wiper. Every time I run a self test I get an x axis belt tension of around 170-180. So hoping you get a nice answer here I can steal lol. The SV06 belt runs aren't quite the same length as the Prusa, being X 367 mm and Y 296 mm. 1! Improved Arrange tool options, new Cut tool options (with dovetail), per-symbol text projection on a surface, interlocking of painted areas for better MMU printing, and more! Prusa does recommend a belt tension between 240 and 300. Pictures of boxes and shipping notices are considered low-effort and will be removed. Prusa isn't the fastest to release a new or updated product, but in a twisted sort of thinking, that's a positive. Either way, re-slicing and using the new alpha firmware and slicer should help. The slicer doesn't account for the extra time in the estimate. Align the M3x22 screw with the hole in the tensioner. If you can identify problems with each printer, be sure to inform Prusa so they can improve their QA check process. You can adjust belt tension the same way as before. Shipping information. Not all printers exhibit this. 2 lb belt tension gives 64 and 80 Hz for X and Y. That is, if you’re only concerned with first layer calibration. Once that the MK4 kit will be shipped we will surely return to speak about the correct belt tension. For the X1C, I have yet to determine the root cause. Then use the top bolt to do micro adjustments. For PETG, that adds like 8 minutes onto every print. 6. Printed this dice tower in about 70 hours total between the two pieces. If the initial tension is high you won’t even have to make micro Belt tension. It may just be something benign and easy to fix, or it could be inherently “unfixable”. Sorry I am new to this. You have to use PLA, and the gcode is pre-compiled. 10+, during the "Self Test" the printer should check the belts for tension and will tell you if they are loose. Grease the rods lightly and it will stop in a couple of hours. This is definitely the future of 3D printing! The XL is absolutely incredible! Belt tension Does any one know how to set belt tension on s1 pro everyone says make it tight but not too tight like what is too tight I so confused can any help! Also my belts are off to one side of the aluminium extrusion is that ok or do I need to adjust it. I'm also going to say this. prusa3d. If needed, follow the steps in the alignment paragraph to fully align the two In the Prusa belt tension article, there is a link to a printables gcode for a homing tower test. Seems like the Belt-axis is not perfectly perpenticular. Now they're reading X 283 and Y 301. By printing slowly 🦥. Using 4. It will stay the same when there are no crashes or if the amount of crashes is the same as the last defective print. After the belt check, poke the heater block and nozzle with something as see if they move. Prusa MK4 Full Review - Aurora Tech. 67K subscribers in the prusa3d community. Overall I'm really happy with this the XL. 48 for the actual print. A good pair of lockjaw pliers will be your friend to get it tight by hand, otherwise something like mattyvee's tensioner works really well. ago. This will get you to the point where the belt doesn't skip and isn't too tight. 3. Make sure the steel ball part is closer to the side of the heatsink. I've thoroughly cleaned the build plate with dish soap several times as well. link. Otherwise a coreXY will print quite fast. Also maybe adjust tension. on the y axis. Prusa XL adjusting belt tension. Original Prusa XL. The manual covers the proper belt tension and adjustment procedures. There are layer inconsistencies along the X-axis, as seen in the below image. ⬢ Insert at once the tensioner, the pulley, and the belt as shown in the picture. If you have an MK3 or MK3S, check the Belt Status numbers via LCD menu -> Support -> Belt Status. Please find packing photos attached. Reply. ⬢ Using the 4mm Allen key, tighten the M8x16ulp bolt on the side where the profile insert was replaced. The layer shifting you experienced may not be the fault of the printer. Check your belt tension on your y axis. This appears to be directly related to the Y Axis idler pulley and replacing that part seems to solve it. Feb 22, 2024 · How to. I'm also looking forward to playing with more exotic materials like carbon or glass filled nylon. If your value is under (or close to) 240, you need to loosen Keep testing just the first few layers until you find results that work for you. You can use a brush, a small broom, or a vacuum to remove debris. I'd expect only 1-2 hz higher on x. Btw instead of having to print bench y’all the way each time, stop the print after a few layers or slice away a chunk of the model in Prusa slicer. You only need to print a 'Y' adapter I recently repaired an old Prusa mk2s and it's been working phenomenally for quite a long time but recently I started using PETG on it for the first time and it started having major layer shifting but only on the y-axis. I also had problems with their app. source. Enough the the bed moves around a little. The belt seems really lose. Mine were super loose from the factory. Members Online I recently got stick drift on my Xbox one S controller, so I just did normal thing and replace the analog stick. Then rotate the motor away from the frame to get it really tight. reading will be higher after tightening, esp. The X was 278 and Y 301. Operating depth: 28 inches. Then, tighten the belt by one tooth (?) and check again if the belt skips. Reply reply. 1mm range?) between the metal plate and the ball bearing sitting on the lever of the toolhead. 4mm, which significantly improved print quality. The values should not be under 240 and above 300, but there is no single ideal value. I tried adjusting the belt tension but it quickly loosened back again. remove it from the toolhead bracket and move it tighter by a few teeth. 6. i also printed his y axis remake and a new y axis belt holder. Oh awesome I'll make sure to try that. 5 mm Allen key ( orange arrows ). On single-head XL, it is possible to gain access by rotating the dwarf-cover-door. In that picture you would have to extend the hole on the right side towards the direction of the belt. The number does not represent any quantity. av eo nn ea zx jp ob ov oe cw